Susan Fang presented her Spring/Summer 2027 ready-to-wear collection on September 18, 2026, drawing on the imagined worlds people create around love. The collection reflected the designer’s ongoing interest in romantic fantasy, intricate craftsmanship and experimental materials, bringing together delicate silhouettes, digital prints and sculptural embellishments.

The collection’s central theme emerged alongside Fang’s work on costumes for M. Butterfly, an opera by Huang Ruo scheduled to show at La Monnaie / De Munt in Brussels in 2027. Rather than directly translating the opera’s narrative into clothing, Fang explored the emotions and imagined realities surrounding love, using them as a starting point for her own visual world.

Fabric surfaces played a central role in the collection. Prints were applied directly to materials or painted and layered between sheets of organza, creating depth and visual complexity. The designs ranged from ankle-length dresses with dropped waists and relaxed T-shirt-inspired silhouettes to fitted pencil skirts with slits and trapezoidal minidresses with high hemlines.

Ceramic-inspired decoration added another dimension. Fang and her team hand-drew motifs influenced by kintsugi, the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery with gold, and traditional blue-and-white Chinese porcelain. Her husband, Orelio, digitally manipulated the designs, combining traditional artistic references with contemporary technology.

The collection also developed Fang’s experiments with pixelated patterns generated through a coding programme that transforms numbers, letters and shapes into visual designs. This approach continued an idea explored in her previous spring collection, pushing the relationship between digital processes and textile design further.

Pastel shades remained central to Fang’s colour palette, complemented by neon accents and delicate three-dimensional printed lace. The intricate lace pieces, designed as trims for sheer tops and dresses, required several weeks to produce using specialised machinery. Other standout details included her signature “air flower” technique, reimagined in red, alongside silver foiling.

While some designs emphasised experimental craftsmanship, the collection also offered more accessible pieces. Smocked dresses and tops inspired by clouds and bubbles, an illusion-print jacket and a collaboration with Crocs translated Fang’s imaginative aesthetic into wearable products.

With Spring 2027, Fang continued to build a distinctive design language that merges romantic references with technological experimentation. The collection transformed her reflections on love into layered surfaces, expressive colours and intricate textures, inviting wearers into a world shaped by imagination and emotion.