Leathers and knits? For spring? Groundbreaking. At least, that’s what Jonathan Simkhai’s design attitude was this season. Instead of playing into the fashion stereotypes that come with spring dressing, Simkhai wanted to experiment with fabric innovations using his signature materials, which often include heftier laces, knits, and leathers. (Clearly he’s more of a fall guy.) “I just wanted to try new things,” he said of the anti-spring direction. “I wanted to challenge myself. It was quite simple in a way.”

These days, seasons pretty much mean nothing, of course: consumers will happily buy coats in the dead of summer, or bikinis mid-winter. So Simkhai’s autumnal looks weren’t a total curveball for spring. His opener was a simple leather black T-shirt dress, complete with a peekaboo white hand-rolled chiffon fringe underneath. There was loads of leather to be had. For men, there were simple cream or black two-piece leather suits, which were very ’90s. For her, fully-fringed leather maxi dresses that swished and swept the floor as models walked. A few of the leather pieces ventured dang..