At Lanvin, Peter Copping continues to draw inspiration from the life and legacy of founder Jeanne Lanvin, whose influence extended from elegant dresses to pioneering sportswear. With access to the house’s extensive archives and creative library, Copping has been exploring the designer’s history while developing his own vision for the brand.

For Spring 2027, his inspiration came from a collection of photographs featuring women whose personal styles have remained distinctive over the years. Among them were Tina Chow, Anjelica Huston, Georgia O’Keeffe, Anna Piaggi, Elsa Peretti and Vogue’s Tonne Goodman. Rather than focusing on one ideal Lanvin woman, Copping found inspiration in their individuality. Their enduring sense of style also reinforced his desire to create clothes that women can wear across different occasions.

That practical approach shaped the collection’s daywear. A cream coat with a dropped waist opened the show, followed by relaxed interpretations of shawl-collar jackets paired with skirts and sharply tailored black-and-white pieces influenced by menswear. Copping emphasized the importance of lightweight fabrics, allowing customers to layer their clothes according to their needs. Soft silk jackets and skirts, recalling a signature Lanvin treatment from the 1930s, brought particular appeal, especially in striking tomato-red shades.

Eveningwear offered a more romantic expression of the designer’s vision. A pale charmeuse dress with a dropped waist recalled Lanvin patterns from the 1920s, while a geometrically embroidered tunic and a series of tie-on halter accessories drew on Indian textiles collected during Jeanne Lanvin’s travels. Copping was especially interested in how the pieces appeared in black-and-white photography, where the removal of color brought their details into focus.

Small mirrors and sequins added flashes of light, while delicate chiffon and lingerie-lace dresses from the 1930s moved with an airy softness. Their sheer, barely-there styling suggested a younger customer,