Ivy style, which permeated N.Hoolywood’s evocative spring collection, is central to the history of post-war Japanese fashion and a subject that designer Daisuke Obana, who was a vintage dealer in the ’90s, is conversant in. In Paris, Celine’s Michael Rider has made nouveau prep a talking point, but the impetus for N.Hoolywood to address the subject came from another source, a request for a capsule collection from Brooks Brothers.

Having agreed to that proposal, Obana and team booked tickets to the East and West coasts of the U. S. where they stayed at the Los Angeles and New York Athletic Clubs, and were given access to the archives. As they started digging, Obana made a discovery: “I realized [the younger members of the team] had never experienced that period. Something that existed in my own memory looked completely new to them,” he wrote in an email. “But simply reproducing authentic traditional style would not be interesting for us, so I began talking with my creative team about combining traditional clothing with another foundation of our work: workwear and utility clothing. Ins.