It was Monse’s grand return to the runway for the first time since co-designers Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia departed Oscar de la Renta, and they certainly pulled out all the stops. Perched inside the very sunny glass dome atop the old Domino Sugar factory, the sweeping space provided a dramatic backdrop for swinging fringe jackets, delicate sheer organza sets, a crescendoing choir of “Like a Prayer,” and a drone buzzing overhead.

Many seasons of Monse have begun with a flower, and for spring, Kim opted for the tulip—specifically, a purple and white variation from Amsterdam. Its relaxed, wayward stem and bright petals floated across a large majority of the collection. “There’s something so beautiful about how this kind of tulip is caused by a virus,” she said, referring to the “broken” color effect. As in fashion, some things require a bit of extra engineering.