For Isabel Marant’s Spring 2027 collection, creative director Kim Bekker looked beyond Paris for inspiration, turning to the relaxed atmosphere of Los Angeles. Her starting point was a 1960s photography book by Sam Haskins, filled with images of women captured in soft, hazy light, sometimes dressed and sometimes undressed. Bekker was drawn to the photographs’ almost translucent colors, which helped shape the collection’s delicate palette and mood.

The change in direction was intentional, following a previous season with a different tone and setting. Presented in the gardens of the Palais Royal, the show felt noticeably more relaxed, even as crowds of enthusiastic fans gathered outside Place Colette. Bekker described the woman at the heart of the collection as purer and more understated, an approach that also helped define the season’s silhouette.

Layering remained central to the Isabel Marant aesthetic, with looks that moved between undone, partially dressed and subtly sensual. The palette featured sun-washed shades of beige, sage, white, black, pink and lilac. Short, flowing dresses appeared in hand-drawn floral and paisley patterns, recalling pieces from the brand’s Summer 2013 archive. This time, however, they were updated with beadwork and button details that moved gently as models walked along the garden pathway.

Black-and-white designs offered some of the collection’s most compelling moments. Bekker used the contrast to simplify and reinterpret patterns, drawing inspiration from British and French style icons. The macramé dresses brought to mind the effortless Riviera wardrobes associated with Lou Doillon and her late mother, Jane Birkin. As Bekker explained, the collection explored the meeting point between contemporary style and vintage pieces gathered over time.

The designer also continued her recent revival of capri pants, introducing versions finished with macramé fringe and paired with lightweight leather blousons. New jacket shapes featured softly rounded shoulders, including a white eyelet bomber and a double-layered cotton jacket with a rounded, bubbly appearance, worn over English eyelet trousers.

Craftsmanship was another defining element. Prints were embellished with delicate embroidery and beadwork, while macramé introduced texture across clothing and accessories, extending even to relaxed flats with a distinctive open neckline.

The increased emphasis on handwork gave the collection a stronger sense of artisanal character, highlighting techniques that depend on human skill and attention. Yet, despite the promising direction, the overall presentation felt somewhat tentative. Craftsmanship offers Bekker considerable creative possibilities, and the next step will be seeing how she develops this approach into a more assured vision for the house.