As a new generation of fashion students arrived at Central Saint Martins last week, Ashish Gupta returned to the London college to shoot a playful, politically charged lookbook for his Spring 2027 collection. Marking 25 years since he began his career, the designer presented 25 looks, each accompanied by a message reflecting his distinctive blend of humour, craftsmanship and social commentary.

Gupta’s journey into fashion began after he moved to London and graduated from Central Saint Martins’ MA programme in 2000, studying under the late Professor Louise Wilson OBE. Before that, he had studied advertising in India and initially imagined a career in writing. His return to the college this season was made possible by current MA tutor Fabio Piras, who welcomed him back into the studios and corridors that helped shape his career.

His background in advertising remains evident in his ability to deliver pointed ideas through concise, memorable slogans. For Spring 2027, however, the messages appeared on handwritten placards rather than the T-shirts that have often served as a canvas for his words.

The statements offered sharp, witty tributes to students, activists and protest movements around the world. Among them were “Libraries Not Data Centres,” “Put Smart People in Charge,” “It’s a Dress Not a Yes” and “One of my best friends is Straight.” Each phrase combined Gupta’s characteristic irreverence with a clear position on contemporary social and political concerns.

The collection emerged from what the designer described as an increasingly troubling global climate. “I feel like globally there’s been such a move towards fascism. And I just think it’s a dark time, and it’s doesn’t feel like a particularly hopeful time,” he said.

One of the most direct political statements was “UK Garage Not UK Farage,” a pointed response to the rise of the far right in Britain. Other references were more subtle, requiring viewers to look beyond the surface. Gupta described the collection as “very coded,” explaining that a leopard-print trouser suit referenced Jane Fonda’s protests against the Vietnam War. In another set of images, models carried pots and pans, recalling objects frequently used by demonstrators during street protests.

The result was a collection that found room for laughter without losing sight of its darker themes. For years, Ashish has brought colour, sequins and exuberant embellishment to London fashion, offering an antidote to the gloom of the moment. Spring 2027 continued that tradition, using humour not to dismiss serious issues but to make them more approachable.

The craftsmanship behind the collection was equally important. Pieces that appeared to be crochet or argyle knitwear were, like the brand’s signature sequinned creations, made by artisans in the Ashish atelier in New Delhi. The painstaking work behind the garments became another subject for Gupta’s wordplay, captured in one of the season’s slogans: “A Handmade Tale.”

With its combination of handmade artistry, political awareness and sharp wit, Ashish’s Spring 2027 collection celebrated the designer’s 25-year journey while reaffirming his belief that fashion can entertain, provoke and offer a little light during difficult times.