“Less I, More Us,” was the mantra stenciled across the runway and bag straps this afternoon. It set the tone for Maria Grazia Chiuri’s first show as Fendi’s chief creative officer—a debut focused on togetherness and collaboration. But while she preached the plural, this was undeniably a Chiuri-led operation. She spent the lead-up to the show talking about silhouette, and by the final bow, it was clear she wasn’t just reshaping the clothes, but the house itself.

The boldest part of her vision was a renewed focus on fur. While Fendi has downplayed its signature material for years to avoid controversy, Chiuri put it front and center today. Fur trims, collars, and fringes appeared on animal-print vests, trench coats, and a stunning black leather coat made of hand-cut floral sections.

Surprisingly, the men wore the most extravagant furs: a vintage-style fox look, a long-haired green blazer, and a shaggy patchwork mix. One women’s jacket featured fur scraps stitched into woodland camo, a nod to Chiuri’s new “Echo Of Love” project. This initiative lets clients work with the Fendi atelier to redesign their own heirloom furs, emphasizing “emotional durability” and the personal memories attached to clothes. It’s a move that mirrors how younger generations in cities like New York have brought vintage fur back into style.

Personal nods continued with detachable collars in white cotton, leather, and fur—a clear tribute to Karl Lagerfeld’s signature shirts, though only the women wore them here. Chiuri also tapped artist SAGG Napoli for a collaboration featuring fur football scarves and T-shirts that paid homage to the five Fendi sisters she worked under early in her career. Another partnership with the estate of Mirella Bentivoglio brought back jewelry and graphics that play with the gendered nature of language.

Bentivoglio’s subversive style fit perfectly with Chiuri’s choice to put men in the most “trophy” garments. At the same time, the designer worked on a shared wardrobe, presenting several looks—like double-breasted jackets and denim—identically on both men and women.

The accessories also looked back to Chiuri’s history at the house, specifically her time on the team that created the Baguette. She revived the bag’s original philosophy with intricate beadwork and fur, while adding a second strap for a modern, cross-body fit.

The core shape of the collection often resembled an “X,” created by deep V-necklines and flared skirts or jackets. For anyone who followed her at Valentino or Dior, these signatures were unmistakable. It was “Less I and More Us,” but still very much her. Backstage, Chiuri reflected on the warm welcome from the Fendi family and long-term staff, noting that when people are that kind, it makes you want to give back.