Alessandro Michele turned the Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève in Paris into the setting for Valentino’s Spring 2027 collection, using books and the idea of an “antilibrary” as the foundation for the show. The concept referenced the collection of unread books described by scholar Nassim Nicholas Taleb, treating unworn clothes in much the same way: as possibilities representing lives and identities that have yet to be explored.

Michele even created a fictional catalogue of books for the occasion, complete with imaginary authors, descriptions and ISBN numbers. Guests were also invited to bring books to the show, which were later intended for donation to libraries, extending the literary concept beyond the runway.

This marked Michele’s fourth ready-to-wear collection for Valentino. Rather than attempting to completely reinvent the house, he continued working through the relationship between Valentino’s established codes of glamour and his own more eclectic design language. The result was a collection that often relied on restraint, allowing individual pieces and styling choices to carry the narrative.

The opening looks explored a more exposed silhouette, with jewel-toned satin bustier tops paired with knee-length skirts in materials including crinkled crepe, floral silk devoré and leather. Some skirts were finished with feathers, while other combinations introduced checked shirts and contrasting layers. Lace biker shorts styled with an oversized, jewel-buttoned jacket offered a more convincing blend of Michele’s romanticism and casual attitude.

Menswear gave Michele greater freedom to experiment. Double-breasted jackets were deliberately misbuttoned to gather around the waist, silk boxers were worn above trouser waistlines, and tailored pieces were mixed with baseball caps carrying the “Villain Teen” slogan. The relaxed styling gave the Valentino man a distinctly more casual character than the women’s looks.

Eveningwear provided the clearest connection between Michele’s imagination and Valentino’s tradition of glamour. Rhinestones, ruffles, feathers and elaborate jewellery appeared alongside simpler satin columns whose drama was concentrated in their sweeping trains. One of the strongest looks was a black velvet dress with a deep neckline, styled with layers of gold and pearl necklaces.

Across the collection, Michele balanced bold colour, revealing silhouettes and decorative details with a more controlled approach to Valentino’s heritage. Vibrant shades, lightweight fabrics, lace, feathers and unexpected combinations created a wardrobe that felt both intellectual and theatrical.

For Spring 2027, Alessandro Michele’s Valentino is less about choosing between tradition and experimentation than allowing the two to exist together. Like the fictional books that inspired the show, the clothes suggest possibilities—different ways of dressing, moving through the world and imagining who one might become.