The Manish Malhotra Fall/Winter 2026/2027 haute couture fashion show in Dubai Fashion Week was as confident as one might expect from a designer who understands the balance between drama and restraint. In a setting as polished and atmospheric as the Dubai Design District for the fashion show, the route taken was through elegance and not drama, and most certainly not drama in fashion clothing but drama in the clothes themselves. The fashion show had a sense of restraint through opulence from the start, with lighting warm and well-focused and music at a pace that was unhurried.
Manish Malhotra is known for taking the traditions of Indian couture and making them relevant in a global luxury market, and for the new season, there was a focus on surface detail and fluidity in construction. The fashion show had a sense of tailoring and embroidery from the start, and the opulence of fabrics was evident from the start in the highly structured outerwear with intricate embroidery. The fabrics were a major part of this fashion show, and there was much velvet and silk on display, catching the light as the models moved with composure down the runway.
Some of the more notable pieces started to appear in the latter part of the show, with elongated jackets over fluid trousers and heavily decorated gowns through craft rather than scale. While gold thread embroidery, crystals, and beadwork were all common elements, they were not so ubiquitous as to overshadow the garments. The latter part of the show took a slightly more formal turn in terms of emphasis on the couture aspect through garments that felt substantial, well-thought-out, and uniquely handmade. The styling was equally understated to avoid distractions from the garments.
Hair was sleek and well-kempt, makeup understated but with a soft glow, and accessories kept to a bare minimum to ensure maximum emphasis on the embroidery and fabric choices. What really made this show shine, however, was the intent behind it. While there are many designers seeking to make waves in terms of pushing boundaries and setting new trends, this collection was unapologetically focused on refinement. While the colors used were safe within a familiar spectrum, the quality of execution and intent meant that the collection felt unashamedly confident. It felt relevant to Dubai’s luxury market while still feeling firmly in keeping with the designer’s identity.
