Stéphane Rolland Fall Winter 2023-24 Collection
A collection that was both dramatic and exquisite was shown by Stéphane Rolland for the autumn season. The collection was a tribute to Maria Callas, who was born one hundred years ago.
His fashion presentation was held in the opulent Opéra Garnier, where the models gracefully ascended the central stairs made of white marble and strolled over the mosaic flooring of the theatre for visitors who were seated there. Callas provided the acoustic backdrop by singing and chatting throughout the performance.
French filmmaker Claude Lelouch, best known for his work on the film “Un Homme et Une Femme,” was responsible for filming the program.
Rolland said, “I am a big fan of Claude’s.” And Lelouch, who is also a fan of the designer, approached him after the designer’s most recent exhibition to inquire about the possibility of the two of them collaborating on a project.
“How could I possibly refuse?” Rolland remarked this, referring to Lelouch as an idol that he holds in high regard. The video is going to be used in the director’s upcoming film, which is going to be called “Finalement,” and it is going to be screened at a state banquet that is going to be held at the Opéra Garnier before the Paris 2024 Olympic Games.
As a way of paying homage to Callas, Rolland conceived of all 31 outfits. He was aware from seeing pictures that she had performed in the 1960s while le-tout Paris was present.
According to Rolland, “those images really show what was the glam and the elegance in Paris at that moment.”
They evolved into the central motif of the collection, together with the presence and drama of Callas. A great number of the works were based on the operas in which she performed.
The silhouettes were very simple and geometric, frequently having a cubic form, and exhibited both bravado and vulnerability at the same time. The majority of the dresses were either black or white, with accents of crimson or gold.
Dresses such as the trapeze dress in white wool gazar with an open back and embroidery made of porcelain flowers were designed by Rolland using the trademark fabrics that he has become known for. A faux diamond fan plastron was used to embellish a long, backless, black crepe and velvet garment. The clothing was also completely black. All of the outfits were stylish enough for a night at the opera, or for a night out on the town.