So they’re going to love the piece of painted wooden toy train-track he has slung on a thong as a necklace in his latest collection. He’s named it Oh Vienna! You have to double-take, but there’s the suggestion of that pattern again. As a reminder, it’s the one Cooke made such a success of in fall 2020, when he designed his famed (to insiders) negative-space argyle sweater. Said configuration is also to be found in the suede cut-outs on his shoulder-bags and on the toe-tips of his shoes.
Cooke’s collection retains the boyish English freshness that has always defined his work, while now dedicating half of it to womenswear. There are only subtle hints of Mitteleuropa styling, perhaps most noticeably in the stiff vinyl skirt, which can be fastened with Velcro and loosely recalls the shape of a traditional folk dirndl. But there is no need to push that connection too far. What stands out instead is a sense of continuity, which feels like a smart approach. His signature flippy skirt silhouette has evolved into a zip-front dress, while his bombers take on the blousy feel of 1980s shell suits, albeit in a far more refined form.
Cooke hasn’t had a physical show since before the pandemic. However, it was during lockdown that his brand was discovered by fans who wanted to buy via his Instagram from as far away as Japan, South Korea, and the USA. These days, though, Cooke is thinking seriously about opening his own store, somewhere in east London. His partner Jake Burt has already passed through the proof-of-concept stage of his Saturdays-only store at 63 Vyner Street.
Stefan Cooke SPRING 2027 READY-TO-WEAR
, and with flying colors. The Chopova Lowena designers have opened their own shop in Bethnal Green. “I feel like there’s a hunger in people to experience things in real life now,” Cooke grinned, “and we’ve proved it.”
Stefan Cooke SPRING 2027 READY-TO-WEAR