Simone Rocha’s New York presentation offered a new kind of layered romanticism with a focus on refined tailoring.” Delicate lace work and structured outerwear added layers to the collection, while muted tones focused on texture over print.
This collection has been quite introspective, almost restrained, yet layered with emotional undertones that have been gradually revealed rather than suddenly.
Silhouettes have been quite playful with contrast. Full skirts have been paired with sharply tailored bodices, while sheer fabrics have been layered over structured undergarments to create a dialogue between fragility and control. Rocha’s strength has been her ability to romanticize while never losing control. This collection has been a careful balance.
Tulle and organza have been back in this collection, almost expected. However, Rocha has used them with subtle variations. Instead of a theatrical approach to layering, this collection has been quite moderated, almost compressed. There has been less excess and more intention. Embellishments have been minimal yet considered:pearl accents, subtle embroidery, and soft draping added to otherwise simple designs.
The color palette was dominated by muted black, ivory, dusty pink, and crimson red. The palette was more inclined to enhance the mood rather than to create spectacle. London may be known for its love of bold disruption, but for Rocha, it was more about emotional continuity rather than revolution.
However, the collection may have been too familiar. Rocha’s codes of exaggerated sleeves and romantic layers are still very much evident; however, they are not being revolutionized. The designs are merely refining her codes rather than revolutionizing them.
However, it must be said that Rocha’s strength lies in her ability to be consistent. In a week where many designers are looking for immediate appeal, Rocha has stuck to her guns and has focused on atmosphere and technique. This season may not have been shocking or even attempted to be; however, it has been quietly reassuring of her place within London’s creative landscape.
