Sacai RTW Spring 2024
After 14 days of reporting on the fashion shows, I was feeling a little out of it. I couldn’t sleep because I kept dreaming about radical pants, rude wranglers, and strange people I met. By the end of the day, strange things had become so common that they no longer felt strange.
Yesterday, after Loewe, a group of us talked about men’s clothes with Brian Cox of Succession, who is proud to be Scottish. We discussed the great thing that country had added to the tradition. Cox was adamant that when someone wore a kilt, everything else should be natural. “Because what’s the point of the kilt if there’s no air circulation?” he said.
Later, we were sitting outside at Sacai in the Sorbonne, where the temperature had reached 91 degrees. The music from Michel Gaubert was as hot as we were. Suddenly, the beats stopped, and the dread strings (without the piano) from the end credits of Succession took their place. As they played, a model walked out wearing, of course, a kilt.
Chitose Abe used a lot of pinstripe suits wool and denim in the first part of her collection. The front collar was white, and the back collar was blue. Abe then moved on to show a “positive punk spirit.” One of her T-shirts said “Know Future,” and her clothes played with the idea of harmony and conflict. She used clever design and construction to put together parts that didn’t belong next to each other. For example, she paired jeans with pinstripes.
Other examples included Carhartt cotton duck that was cut into covert coats for men or double-breasted evening jackets for women, ombre Fair Isle knits that looked like tufted fleece, and stately decorative florals that were embroidered on workwear bleus de travail or printed on silky sheer-paneled rugby shirts at Loewe. Crepe sweatshirts were turned into short and long hemmed dresses, and desert-colored MA-1 jackets were turned into peplum skirts and sleeveless zip-ups. Behind the collar, pearlescent beads were used to add a delicate touch to more coats that were a mix of Carhartt and tailoring.
It was clear that the fashion shows were pushing the boundaries of what was possible. We could see the future, at least until spring 2024.
Sacai, the Tokyo-based brand, has been making waves in the design world since 1999. Under the creative direction of Chitose Abe, Sacai has become one of the most highly sought after luxury brands, offering a unique and distinct approach to fashion.
Sacai’s designs are often described as experiments in hybridity, a term coined by Abe herself. Her innovative vision incorporates unique techniques which result in layers, hybrid fabrics, and more. Sacai’s garments showcase modern textile experiments, a combination of traditional Japanese aesthetic with Western references.
Abe’s vision is based on the concept of “the beauty of transformation”- the idea that something can be beautiful both completed and in the process of becoming. Her pieces are designed to be multifunctional and to transcend seasons and trends. Sacai has become synonymous with quality craftsmanship and timeless design.
Sacai’s designs have gathered a cult following of fashionable tastemakers and celebrities alike, with the likes of Kim Kardashian West, Rihanna, and Gisele Bundchen spotted wearing Sacai designs.
Abe’s craftsmanship can also be seen in the collections she has designed for Nike. Known as “The Postmodern Collection”, the collaboration draws on Nike’s archives and Abe’s hybrid clothing techniques to create a unique aesthetic.
Sacai’s commitment to the craft of design and its timeless pieces make it an inspiring and sought after luxury label. The brand has become a byword for high quality garments that stand the test of time.