Roksanda Ilinčić brought her Spring 2027 collection to the rooftop garden of London’s Brutalist National Theatre, where late-afternoon sunshine and an open-air setting gave her sculptural silhouettes room to move. The location complemented the designer’s signature sense of volume, colour, and movement, while marking another chapter in her long-standing dialogue between fashion and art.

This season, Ilinčić looked to Swiss textile artist Françoise Gossen, translating her use of braids and suspended threads into playful three-dimensional details. Colourful strands spilled from oversized clutch bags, while thick ropes were wrapped around the backs of tailored jackets, adding texture and movement to otherwise precise silhouettes.

The designer also turned to her own artistic practice for inspiration. Having studied fine art in Belgrade before moving to London, Ilinčić returned to painting this summer and transformed a series of painted women’s faces into prints for oversized silk scarves. These were designed to be worn in multiple ways, shifting between scarves, tunics, and dresses.

That painterly sensibility extended across the collection through oversized brushstroke prints and vibrant colour combinations. Signature gowns appeared in dramatic constructions of yarn tufts and skeins, sculptural arched peplums, and draped synthetic crocodile, reinforcing the monumental quality that has become central to Roksanda’s aesthetic.

The result was a collection that balanced artistic experimentation with the glamour of occasionwear, while continuing Roksanda’s evolution toward a broader wardrobe. With its sculptural gowns, expressive prints, and tactile embellishment, Spring 2027 offered plenty of statement pieces for the designer’s red-carpet clientele.