During the pre-spring preview, Lazaro Hernandez was walking the runway wearing an enormous bomber. “I want to get this for myself,” he stated. “I’m interested in it.” Proenza Schouler is not transitioning to a format that is gender neutral; nevertheless, after 20 years in the industry, they have entered their own particular period. Jack McCollough stated that “It’s true to our own style, and it’s honest to us,” in the work. They made a mood board with all of their favourite ladies to use as inspiration for their autumn collection, and rather than taking it down and moving on to another idea or set of references, they left it up while they started working on this season’s collection instead. Consistency and creating garments that are suitable for “real life” are now their guiding ideas. “It’s the same woman in both of our hearts,” Hernandez remarked.

Chloe Sevigny does not appear here, but the blazer that she wore in the opening look of the fall show does, right down to the ingenious zipper that runs up the centre seam in the back. This is the second time that the designer has used this particular model. Many of the pieces that were displayed on the runway will be back in updated iterations, including: Knit versions of the strapless leather dresses with the folded-over necklines are now available; these variants are not only more comfortable to wear but also more wallet-friendly. The flowing chiffon pieces that were shaped like scarf squares and tied with rows of brass buttons have been rethought in barer forms. McCollough refers to these dresses as “DIA Beacon dresses,” after the upstate museum, for their cold and graphic lines. After finding success with shearling outerwear, they experimented with a plausible fake fur coat (the material was created by a German teddy bear company, according to what they said) and luxurious double-face cashmere. Both of these materials were successful.

Even if we are currently experiencing a period of “quiet luxury,” there is still a chance that stressing constancy would make people bored. Hernandez and McCollough made efforts to counteract it by incorporating colour into their work. The aforementioned sleeveless knit dress was designed in a hue of blue by Yves Klein that was as vivid as the yellow shearling from the previous season. And for the dress, they went with a daring bluish red that has draping and variable ties so it can be worn in a variety of different ways. However, the garment that comes in black and white is the one that is most likely to attract the most attention. A gauzy white top with a higher neckline and longer hemline is worn underneath a black top with a v-neck and a bias cut to midi length. As promised, a sleek take on everyday living.

The Collection