Pauline Dujancourt’s collection emerged like a dream, with models appearing behind a translucent screen before stepping onto a runway scattered with white lace and tiny three-dimensional water lilies. The designer created a romantic world of handmade textures, delicate flowers and flowing silhouettes, showcasing her distinctive approach to knitwear.
Inspired by Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s The Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant, Dujancourt explored the emotional language of tears through what she called a “tears library.” Lace and crochet strands became visual expressions of despair, grief, pain and relief, transforming melancholic emotions into intricate textile details.
The collection featured dresses covered in tiny handmade flowers, chiffon streamers and softly gathered asymmetric skirts. Dujancourt’s craftsmanship was particularly striking in the finale, which incorporated around 700 individually woven flowers, each taking approximately 10 to 15 minutes to make on a small loom.
While the collection retained an ethereal, fantastical quality, Dujancourt also expanded its everyday appeal with trousers, tanks and cropped jackets. Her growing ready-to-wear offering complemented the fantasy wedding dresses she continues to make to order, reflecting the designer’s increasing focus on building a more versatile wardrobe.
The result was a collection where delicate craft, emotional storytelling and wearable design came together, reinforcing Dujancourt’s place within a new generation of London designers.