Sandra Sandor has built Nanushka around a particular kind of uniform — structured outerwear with cheek-grazing collars, impeccably draped dresses, sculptural tailoring, softly cinched waists. For fall 2026 she kept all of that, but let it breathe a little differently.

The starting point was preppy wardrobe staples — regatta-ready blazers, evening shirts, Argyle knits — taken and gently loosened. Hems curved. Cuffs elongated. A sharp herringbone suit got an elasticated waist. A lampshade bodice became a recurring motif, appearing on a hip-grazing fringe piece, jersey T-shirts, and a sharp-shouldered suit jacket paired with red velour cuffed track pants — not the athleisure kind, Sandor was clear, but something closer to upholstery velour, which made all the difference. A classic double-breasted wool bouclé coat was blocked with fluffs of faux fur. Bow-wrapped tops, which in other hands might read as too sweet for the Nanushka world, arrived in leather and cut asymmetrically at the hip — anything but saccharine.

“I really let our use of fabric and draping guide this season’s shapes,” Sandor said. “It gave a sense of openness and freedom to pieces that would otherwise feel rigid. There’s a sense of soft power.” That phrase landed accurately. The collection felt expansive without losing its characteristic precision — structured things made yielding, formal references made relaxed.

A new thread of western spirit ran through the collection alongside the prep — fringe appearing on eveningwear, suede and ponchos and leather cravats, an icy blue prairie dress, a pilgrim-collared padded duchess jacket. A brilliant bright red fuzzy coat honoured Sandor’s Hungarian roots and the country’s shepherding heritage. It was, practically speaking, 100% recycled polyester.

Styling, as always at Nanushka, was essentially built into the clothes themselves. Silk scarves tied to read as turtlenecks layered underneath. A slinky black satin dress with a louche check shirt — a complete thought, requiring nothing else. A sheer checkered organza top and pants set that seemed to float across the body rather than sit on it. The pep, as ever, is very much in the Nanushka prep’s step.