Stephen Biga’s second outing for Mel Usine feels like stepping into a story you half-remember—part myth, part memory, and entirely emotional. The brand itself is rooted in legend, named after Melusine, the shape-shifting water spirit whose tale is built on secrecy, betrayal, and transformation. For Fall 2026, Biga expands that mythology, weaving in another symbol of fantasy: the unicorn.

His starting point—the famed “À mon seul désir” tapestry—introduces a quieter, more introspective kind of femininity. Not performative, not overtly explained, but self-contained and self-aware. That idea runs through the collection: the body is present, sometimes even revealed through sheer fabrics, but never fully given away.

There’s a noticeable evolution from his debut. Where last season leaned more openly romantic, this one feels controlled, almost disciplined. Silhouettes are more covered, more deliberate. Lace—one of the collection’s key materials—is patchworked into second-skin tops and elongated dresses, tracing the body without overwhelming it. Paired with leggings that tie at the ankle and swell subtly over the foot, the look shifts from historical costume to something unexpectedly urban.

The medieval references are there, but they don’t dominate. Instead, they hover—suggested in texture, in layering, in the quiet drama of long sleeves and trailing lines. There are also echoes of 19th-century literary romance, the kind that lingers in atmosphere rather than detail. But Biga resists going full fantasy. He interrupts it with modernity—streamlined shapes, restrained styling, and a sense of wearability that keeps the collection grounded.

Outerwear plays a key role in that balance. Coats and tailored pieces anchor the softness of lace and sheerness, giving the collection structure and weight. It’s in these moments that Mel Usine feels most contemporary—where romance meets reality without losing its edge.

Ultimately, Fall 2026 is less about escape and more about controlled escapism. Biga isn’t asking you to disappear into fantasy—he’s offering fragments of it, carefully edited and reworked for the present. In a season that often leans toward severity or minimalism, Mel Usine dares to believe in softness again—but on its own terms.