Imane Ayissi honours the artist Paul Chmaroff with her Fall Winter 2023-24 Couture Collection.

During the final day of the recently concluded Paris design Week, the design company Imane Ayissi staged a fashion show to display their Fall Winter 2023.24 Haute Couture Collection. The collection is a tribute to the artist Paul Chmaroff and was shown as part of the Haute Couture showcase. The intriguing works of painter Paul Chmaroff discovered in the Thierry Schneider collection, which features an extensive selection of the artist’s work, served as the impetus for the creation of the collection that bears the name Mguilguidigueu – Mteun. Although the designer was not aware with Chmaroff’s background—the artist hails from a Russian culture that is extremely unlike to the designer’s own—he was immediately captivated to the paintings’ innate beauty. Chmaroff is a Russian artist. This encouraged the designer to contemplate the universality of the quest of beauty, which is not limited by cultural boundaries and serves as a force that brings people together. It became clear that the genesis of any visual production is rooted in a foundation of lines and curves – a fundamental element that is expressed as a line and a circle (Mguilguidigueu-Mteun in Cameroon’s Ewondo language). This notion was brought to light when it became apparent that the origin of any visual creation is anchored in a foundation of lines and curves. Within this framework, the work of one creator can provide resonance and affinity for the work of another creative.

The collection conducts an in-depth investigation of lines, forms, volumes, motions, colours, and textures. This investigation is based on the resonance created by Paul Chmaroff’s artwork. Aesthetic study, on the other hand, cannot ignore the necessity of addressing the influence it has on the environment in today’s society. In the process of design, this fact acts as a constraint as well as a stimulant for invention. As a direct result of this, a deliberate choice was taken to incorporate a significant amount of natural fibres into this collection, with linen taking the lead as the material that is the least harmful to the environment. It is combined with silk, bamboo viscose (which has a low impact on the environment and is biodegradable), and embroideries fashioned from scraps of cloth. Raffia, Obom (tapped tree bark), “bazin teinté,” and Kenté are some examples of traditional African fibres and fabrics that were used in the design, as is customary.

This collection is an ode to beauty; it bridges the gap between many different cultures while also recognizing the need of being environmentally responsible. It does this by encouraging artistic discovery while also taking into account sustainable practices. This event is a tribute to Africa’s rich textile tradition as well as a celebration of the global language of creativity.

The Collection