Nearly a year after leaving Balenciaga, Demna has unveiled his first collection for Gucci at the Palazzo Delle Scintille. Moving away from his signature avant-garde provocations, he traded “intellectual” design for a body-conscious, commercial energy intended to return the house to the cultural spotlight.
The set featured replicas of Roman statuary, reflecting Demna’s desire to treat Gucci as an Italian cultural institution. His focus shifted from boundary-pushing silhouettes to “fun,” wearable fashion, targeting a Gen Z audience with a “club-to-pilates” aesthetic.
Collection Highlights
-
Silhouettes: Shrink-wrapped muscle tees, compression polos, and stretchy tube dresses.
-
Tailoring: Fluid suiting with high-sheen fabrics and brushed shearlings for a “bourgeois Milanese” look.
-
Accessories: Reworked icons like the Jackie bag in crushable leather and high-octane stiletto pumps.
-
Evening: Formal embellished gowns and barefoot men in sequined pajamas.
The runway featured a diverse cast of digital natives, including Vivian Wilson and rapper Fakemink. The show leaned heavily into the sex appeal of the Tom Ford era, culminating in Kate Moss closing the show in a backless dress and a bedazzled double-G g-string.
Demna’s goal was simple: to move beyond just being a brand and reclaim Gucci as a “state of mind”—an energetic, “out there” feeling for a new generation
