Giambattista Valli’s Spring/Summer 2026 couture show was an unapologetic celebration of volume and color. The designer is famous for his dramatic designs, and this show was no different as he again emphasized the use of exaggerated proportions in his designs. The runway was filled with the colors of fuchsia, coral, mint, and powder blue, creating a visual contrast with the otherwise subdued colors used in the rest of the shows this season.
The show opened with a sharp black ensemble that was soon replaced by layers upon layers of gathered fabric. Tulle was the fabric of choice for the designer, used in the form of towering ruffles and expansive skirts that seemed both dramatic and precise. Yet, despite the magnitude, the clothes held shape; every level seemed carefully positioned, highlighting the technical prowess of the atelier.
Valli’s skill was evident in the attention to detail. The bodices, embroidered by hand, sparkled through layers of fabric, while feathers and flowers provided texture without suffocating the silhouette. A dramatic crimson dress, complete with train and precision-cut neckline, was a highlight—drama and precision combined.
Although some outfits tested the boundaries of proportion, the collection was unified in its celebration of dramatic femininity.
The pacing of the show was energetic, oscillating between sharply cut tailoring and explosive volume. Valli solidified his position in the world of couture as a purveyor of spectacle—where romance and grandeur collide in their most extreme expression.
