For Spring 2026, Swiss designer Kévin Germanier presented a couture collection that turned sustainability into high drama and artistic commentary. Titled Les Chardonneuses, the lineup was a celebration of reinvention — both of materials and of couture’s role in a rapidly evolving fashion landscape.
Germanier’s work has always flirted with paradox — couture’s opulence intertwined with a playful, sometimes rebellious spirit — and this season was no exception. Embracing an expanded collaboration with luxury conglomerate LVMH, he repurposed excess fabrics and pieces from multiple maisons, including uniforms originally designed for the Paris 2024 Olympics, into extravagant new forms.
The runway opened with a striking showpiece worn by Lisa Rinna in her couture debut: a bold black gown combining off‑the‑shoulder sophistication with a voluminous tulle skirt and a headpiece evocative of wild thistle. The theatrical tone set the stage for a collection that leaned into both spectacle and substance.
Germanier’s approach was both deconstructive and constructive. Classic references — such as a Berluti jacket turned inside‑out with its satin lapels reshaped as a dramatic plunging back — blended with avant‑garde touches like spiky, thistle‑inspired appliqués crafted from recycled materials. Vibrant denim and crystal‑embroidered elements appeared alongside unexpected remnants, calling attention to the tension between luxury and excess.
This season also saw Germanier push into new couture terrain. Bridal gowns appeared in pristine white, their lace and delicate detailing offering a lyrical counterpoint to the more industrial and sculptural pieces. Throughout the collection, the upcycled materials were not concealed — they were celebrated, their histories embedded into each garment’s narrative.
Germanier framed couture not as static ritual but as dynamic transformation, where nothing is too sacred to be remade. With Les Chardonneuses, he underscored that true creative daring lies not just in ornamentation, but in reimagining the very foundations of luxury fashion — turning surplus into spectacle and material constraint into imaginative freedom.
