Gabriela Hearst was busy taking resort appointments the previous Wednesday, the day that the sky over New York City became a dystopian orange colour. Her research into the history of the ancient Druid civilization became even more meaningful as a result. She stated, “I’ve been asking myself where society took a wrong turn,” and she hinted that it may have been when the Romans killed out the Druids that society took a turn for the worst. She stated, while reading from a book authored by Peter Berrsford Ellis on the topic, that “the Romans based their laws on private ownership of land with property rights entirely vested on the head of the family, whereas the Druids always considered ownership collective.”

What if, during the course of our species’ evolution, we came to realise that the natural world and the human world are not two separate realms, but rather that they are intricately intertwined with one another? Even while there isn’t always a clear link between her studies and her collection, there is always enough food for thought when it comes to Hearst. This is in addition to her dedication to utilising materials that are sustainably produced and environmentally friendly, of course.

Resort finds her refining her unique design motifs even more. The most eye-catching trend is the introduction of metal hardware, which is now used to enhance garments that are otherwise plain and even austere. In a long-sleeved design, the hardware finishes off a circular cut-out at the hipbone, and in a strapless dress, it encircles one of the wearer’s biceps. These are the next generation of runway numbers, which previously had cutouts on the side that revealed sculpted metal panniers. Other dresses for special occasions combined the ease of a t-shirt on top with the elegance of draping at the hips to create a long, slim skirt with a lot of volume.

The aesthetic aspect of the pleasures that may be had from Hearst’s clothing is significant, but the way that the garments sit and move on the body is just as vital, if not more so. She exemplifies what is meant by the phrase “quiet luxury.” This characteristic was particularly evident on a cashmere knit dress from this season. The garment had a hand-knit aran pattern that shifted from the neckline to the midi-length hem, which gave the dress a feminine hourglass form.

The Collection