This was the first coed Emporio Armani show led by Giorgio Armani’s chosen successors, Silvana Armani and Leo Dell’Orco. Before his passing last year, Armani himself planned this transition to make sure the men’s and women’s collections felt like one unified brand.
The teamwork was obvious. Throughout the show, “his-and-hers” pairings popped up in the form of matching checkered jackets, aviator styles, and sharp blue evening suits. The theme centered on students at a school for orchestra conductors, with models grouped into “tribes” mostly wearing baker boy caps.
The models moved quickly, which is classic Armani, making the show feel like a fast-paced performance. A few standouts really broke through the crowd: a woman’s oversized biker jacket paired with combat pants, some great gray bird’s-eye tailoring for the guys, and a stunning oxblood shearling coat. One of the dreamiest looks was a black wool topcoat with yellow-and-white stitching worn over gold-embroidered jeans. Because the pace was so fast, you almost missed some of the finer details, like the mohair leg warmers and skinny silk cravats.
The finale shifted from the music school theme to high-end evening wear. We saw shaggy coats, wrap tops paired with blue silk trousers, and tuxedo tailcoats mixed with mesh dresses. The show ended with a series of white shirts featuring various collars and crystal-studded bow ties. While the presentation was a bit crowded, the main ideas worked well—it looks like Emporio’s new leaders are finding their rhythm.
