David Koma looked to the competitive world of 1990s figure skating for inspiration for his Spring 2027 ready-to-wear collection, combining athletic discipline with theatrical femininity, sparkling embellishments and his signature sharp tailoring.

The designer began the season exploring the idea of cool summers, a contradiction that led him to the ice rink. He was particularly drawn to the era’s figure skaters, whose rhinestone-covered costumes and dramatic silhouettes made technically demanding performances appear effortless.

Tonya Harding emerged as a central reference, with Koma focusing less on the controversy surrounding the skater and more on what he described as her “determination and rawness.”

The collection followed the progression of a skater’s wardrobe, moving from warm-up layers to dramatic rink-ready looks while retaining the designer’s signature tailoring and feather details.

A Palette of Ice-Inspired Colors and High Glamour

The collection’s color palette reinforced the contrast between athleticism and theatrical glamour. Deep black and milky ivory were offset by glossy, sugary shades, creating a balance that prevented the designs from becoming overly sweet.

Highlights included a mint-blue bomber jacket with a technical neckline, skirts featuring gathered or fringed details reminiscent of scrunchies, candyfloss-pink knickers, metallic column gowns and sculpted bodysuits with internal boning that reinterpreted the streamlined silhouettes of figure skating costumes.

Koma also explored the sport’s compulsory figures: the precise circles and figure-eights skaters trace on the ice and are judged on for accuracy.

One black minidress translated those patterns into concentric designs of hand-beaded crystals, each featuring a mother-of-pearl center. The embellishments were integrated into the garment like pieces of jewelry.

Geometric motifs appeared elsewhere through hipbone cutouts finished with fringe and internal metal structures designed to pull and gather fabric around the body. These construction techniques added movement and drama to the silhouettes.

Sculptural Construction Creates Movement

Movement was a defining feature of the collection, even in pieces presented at rest. A series of gowns and skirts incorporated internal boning that extended away from the body, supporting shimmering layers of silk fringe and feather plumes.

The construction created a sense of energy and motion, reflecting the centrifugal force and fluidity of figure skating.

“I like to animate the body and create this organic movement,” Koma said, describing his approach to translating the sport’s physical dynamism into fashion.

The result was a collection that balanced sculptural structure with fluid embellishment, using fabric, feathers and carefully engineered silhouettes to suggest the motion of a skater gliding across the ice.

Taking the David Koma Woman Beyond the Red Carpet

Beyond the collection’s high-glamour eveningwear, Koma signaled a broader shift toward making his designs more versatile for everyday occasions.

While the collection retained the dramatic details associated with his label, those elements increasingly appeared in ready-to-wear separates, knitwear and layering pieces. The aim was to give the David Koma woman more opportunities to incorporate the brand’s aesthetic into her wardrobe beyond red-carpet appearances.

Koma said he wanted customers to experience his creative vision across different categories and occasions, extending the house’s identity beyond statement dressing.

At the heart of the collection remained the idea of glamour as a form of strength. The designer also suggested that the identity of his customer is becoming more diverse and less easily defined.

“It’s becoming harder to define the David Koma woman and I think that’s important, to see how characters across the world translate my vision,” he said.

For Spring 2027, Koma combined the discipline and precision of competitive skating with the expressive power of fashion, delivering a collection that celebrated confidence, movement and modern femininity while expanding the possibilities of his signature glamour.