Collina Strada has consistently been a highlight of New York Fashion Week, known for its vibrant aesthetic and a deep-seated commitment to sustainability and social commentary. For her Spring 2026 collection, designer Hillary Taymour took a bold, theatrical approach, inviting guests to an East Side helipad with the dramatic Brooklyn skyline as a backdrop. The show was more than a display of garments; it was a profound exploration of light and darkness, a direct response to the “era of crisis” and the “darkest impulses” of humanity. The runway became a stage for dualities, where each model was accompanied by a “shadow” twin, creating a powerful and haunting visual narrative that captivated the audience.
A Collection Born from Crisis
The show’s theme was immediately set by show notes that declared, “Beyond a shadow of a doubt, we are living in an era of crisis. Humanity’s darkest impulses no longer lurk in abstraction; they are taking concrete form. Our shadows walk among us.” This sombre introduction was paired with haunting choir music and a voiceover repeating, “This is not a democracy,” signalling that the collection would not shy away from difficult truths.
Taymour’s concept of duality was the central theme, with each model walking alongside a “shadow” twin. The twin was dressed in the same garment but in an all-black version, complete with a lace face covering. This striking imagery was a direct representation of the “push and pull” between light and darkness. As Taymour explained, it’s about navigating the darkness that lingers in the world while still striving to be a brighter version of oneself.
The collection itself was a vibrant contrast to this sombre message. It featured an array of glistening slipdresses with lace patchwork, super-sized cargo pants with playful peplums, and snug baby T’s. The use of vibrant colours and whimsical details served as a powerful counterpoint to the underlying theme of crisis, embodying the brand’s core philosophy of finding joy and humour even in the face of adversity. This ability to blend serious commentary with a sense of playful optimism is a hallmark of Collina Strada’s unique aesthetic.
Nuanced Takes and Sustainable Practices
Collina Strada’s commitment to sustainability and conscious design was evident in several key pieces. A double bridal look, for instance, was crafted entirely from deadstock pieces, scraps of lace, and chiffon. This innovative use of discarded materials not only reinforced the brand’s ethical principles but also created a visually intriguing and deeply meaningful garment. This approach challenges the traditional wastefulness of the fashion industry and positions Collina Strada as a leader in sustainable luxury.
The show’s artistry extended to the accessories, which were an integral part of the collection’s storytelling. Models wore intricate headpieces made of real hair, a detail that pushed the theme of identity and duality even further. The accessories included a collaboration with Awe Inspired for crystal jewellery belts and earrings, and a partnership with Converse on footwear. The Converse collaboration used recycled materials in the soles and came with removable charms, allowing customers to customise their look while supporting sustainable practices.
From Theatricality to Business Acumen
While the brand is often celebrated for its theatrical and rule-breaking spirit, Taymour is quick to emphasise that Collina Strada is a serious fashion business. The recent opening of the brand’s first store has provided valuable real-time data, revealing that customers are making larger purchases. Taymour noted that her customers are “a little bit more conscious” and view their purchases as an investment, often spending thousands of dollars on a single dress.
This growth is a testament to the brand’s ability to balance its creative vision with a strong business strategy. The addition of a denim line this season further signals the brand’s expansion and its ambition to reach a wider audience. Taymour’s goal is to show that a brand can be both dramatic and creatively driven while maintaining a serious commitment to business growth. The show was not just an artistic statement; it was a clear signal that Collina Strada has matured and is ready to take on the future with confidence and purpose.
Check out Collina Strada’s last collection:
