Based on the first look Christian Cowansent down the runway today, you’d never guess what inspired his new spring lineup. The light-wash denim tuxedo, with heavy black panels and retro-style clasps, was one of his many designs that nodded to Old Hollywood—but in a rough, undone approach.

It might be hard to imagine Marilyn Monroe in such a piece, but that was precisely the point: Cowan wanted to give an edge to the Golden Age of Hollywood, which we know was far from perfect or glamorous behind the scenes. “I wanted to pay homage to the silver screen icons,” said Cowan, who himself has a Jane Russell tattoo on his chest. “But I also wanted to reflect how miserable the public made their lives. It’s a love letter to the woman who played with the coded language of glamour.”

As a result, Cowan took Old Hollywood signatures—slip dresses, fur-trimmed caftans, beaded evening frocks—and twisted them by making them more 2026 party girl. They were a little more disheveled, like what New Hollywood stars would wear clubbing in the 2000s.

Christian Cowan Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection