Charles de Vilmorin has a great deal to justify his existence. Backstage following his first ever runway show for his namesake label, the young designer stated, “I was not in a very good mood this past year,” which was a subtle reference to his resignation from Rochas earlier this year after just a brief spell there. “I wanted to make something that was intense and pointed.“

De Vilmorin presented a couture collection that was predominately black and white. Pieces that featured his distinctive artwork — which continue to be some of his most appealing proposals — were scattered throughout the lineup at various points. “This show is the story of the pressure of creation,” he added. “This show is about the pressure of creating.” “It starts with a very simple white dress, like a white paper when you start to create,” he added, describing his first appearance, which consisted of a dress made of translucent white fabric that was lightly draped. The designer stated that he created this collection in response to the issues that he asks himself when he is in the process of creating, such as whether to present something sleek and black or something “crazy with more colour.”

Both of these things were accomplished here by De Vilmorin, who combined visually arresting draping proposals in black and white with vibrant outfits in prints and rich silks. This is a young designer who finds himself on a wider stage than he is prepared for, but this outing showed promise for what may be in store for him in the future should he improve and focus his craft. The fact that Inès de La Fressange stepped out halfway through the performance in an all-black ensemble to loud ovation should serve as a portent for what’s to come for De Vilmorin as he develops as a designer. Let this be a premonition for what’s to come.

The Collection