For his third season showing in New York, Mexican designer Patricio Campillo returned with a thoughtful and refined collection that quietly made a statement. The last time he showed here, in February, his viral “Golfo de Mexico” tee—created in response to Donald Trump’s decision to rename the Gulf of Mexico as the “Gulf of America”—sparked major buzz. This time, Campillo’s message was more subtle but carried even deeper meaning.
He explained that the collection was born from his reflections on repetition—a concept deeply rooted in Mexican craft and culture. “I’ve been thinking about how the artisanal value in being Mexican often comes from processes that are based on repetition,” he said. This idea guided him to explore the materials and techniques that define traditional craftsmanship: weaving, knitting, knotting—the repetitive motions that shape everything from textiles and hammocks to baskets.
The result was a collection rich in visible labor and artistry. Silk shorts composed of woven panels, bomber jackets and shirts detailed with strips of leather, and smocked tops with basket-weave detailing down the sides of trousers—each piece showcased its own intricate pattern, yet felt cohesive as a whole.
“I wanted to find a new level of sophistication for the brand,” Campillo noted, and he succeeded. His work recontextualized Mexican heritage through a contemporary lens while honoring the hands behind it. The designer also emphasized the importance of collaborating with Indigenous communities, whose isolation often protects the uniqueness of their techniques. “It’s this idea of self-referencing that creates new versions of the original,” he explained—a concept that reflects both cultural evolution and brand-building.
Campillo’s show encouraged his audience to rethink what defines luxury. Beyond the polished ateliers of Paris, he celebrated the craftsmanship of Mexican artisans, blending both worlds seamlessly. Some of the collection’s feathered pieces, for example, were produced in a historic Parisian atelier—an elegant merging of tradition and innovation.
Despite the intricate work behind each garment, the collection felt light, romantic, and effortless. Campillo skillfully applied these artisanal techniques to his signature menswear-inspired silhouettes—shirts, trousers, jackets, and blouses—creating looks that were both wearable and poetic.
With each season, Campillo’s vision grows clearer and more ambitious. Judging by this collection, those ambitions are far from misplaced.
