Julian Louie made his New York Fashion Week debut with his Aubero Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear collection, presenting a thoughtful exploration of artistry, heritage, and craftsmanship. Despite the milestone moment, Louie appeared calm and collected. “I actually feel quite calm,” he said. “I’m really on the men’s calendar, so the collection was mostly finished in June. The bulk of the work—like wrangling samples—happened earlier in the summer.”
That confidence stems from experience. A Cooper Union architecture graduate, Louie began his career under Francisco Costa at Calvin Klein Collection before launching Aubero in 2022. Since then, the label has gained global recognition and is now carried by Bergdorf Goodman, Maxfield, Barneys New York, and other leading boutiques. Louie’s talent has also earned him nominations for both the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund and CFDA Emerging Designer of the Year awards.
Louie’s artistic vision is deeply rooted in his Santa Cruz, California upbringing. “I hesitate to call it an inspiration because it feels more foundational and emotional,” he explained. “Santa Cruz is a surf town, a university town, and a place with a strong cultural identity shaped by the ‘60s and ‘70s. That heritage of individuality really informs the attitude behind my work.”
This sentiment materialized in a collection that blurred the line between fashion and art. Models appeared in garments resembling long skirts that nodded to sarong towels, evoking the image of surfers wrapping up after an early morning session. Yet, beneath the easy, coastal references lay sophisticated craftsmanship.
The standout looks were reconstructed from antique textiles, transformed into exquisite coats, trousers, and jackets. Louie described Aubero’s beginnings as “a project born from preservation,” explaining that he often works with materials too delicate to handle, reimagining them into wearable art. Every scrap is saved and reworked—like the leftover taffeta that became a striking patchwork jacket in this collection.
Presented in a lighting studio accompanied by a live drum circle, the show was both intimate and expressive. Louie’s debut for Aubero wasn’t just a presentation—it was a manifesto of sustainable artistry and emotional storytelling, marking a powerful new chapter in American fashion.
Aubero Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear collection
