At New York Fashion Week on February 13, AKKI unveiled its Fall/Winter 2026 collection, The Blue Iris, at The Living Room inside the W New York Union Square. Set against a live piano performance by Indonesian composer Eunike Tanzil, the presentation unfolded as an intimate and poetic reflection of designer Akki Zhao’s personal journey.

Structured around the metaphor of “seed to bloom,” the collection traced a narrative of growth and transformation. It opened with Flower Girl, symbolizing beginnings, and evolved into Human Vase, a sculptural representation of maturity. This progression mirrored Zhao’s own life—born in Japan, raised in China, and now based in New York—her “third homeland.” Within this context, the blue iris emerged as a symbol of memory, rebirth, and fleeting beauty.

Craft played a central role throughout the collection. Chinese brocade was reimagined through open-seam construction, allowing edges to fray and evolve over time—an intentional design choice that embraces imperfection and the passage of time. Rather than preserving tradition in its original form, Zhao reinterpreted heritage through a contemporary lens.

Japanese pleating techniques were also central to the collection’s structure. Box pleats, accordion pleats, and Zhao’s signature “diamond” pleats appeared across dresses, outerwear, and tailoring. Sculptural S-shaped silhouettes introduced a sense of duality, echoing the balance between opposing forces—past and present, East and West, softness and structure.

This fusion extended into the garments’ construction. Drop-back collars and oversized belts referenced kimono and obi forms, while their execution felt distinctly urban, grounding the collection in a modern New York context.

Attention to detail elevated the narrative further. Accessories incorporated jade, freshwater pearls, and porcelain buttons repurposed from antique Chinese ceramics. Knitwear featured Japanese washi paper yarn, while leather goods took on origami-inspired forms, including crane-shaped handbags. The color palette centered on rich cobalt blue, expanding into layered shades alongside accents of brown, soft pink, yellow plaid, and quilted red—tones reminiscent of traditional Japanese garden scenes.

Collaboration also played a key role in expanding the collection’s creative scope. Jewelry from AKIO MORI, customized PUMA sneakers adorned with traditional materials, and reimagined Bang & Olufsen headphones wrapped in pleated fabric highlighted a dialogue between fashion, craft, and technology. Wooden vases by Yamaichi Rokuro added an artisanal touch to the presentation space.

Following the relocation of her atelier to Tokyo in 2025 and a restructuring of her supply chain, this collection marks a significant new chapter for Zhao. A graduate of the Fashion Institute of Technology, she continues to position AKKI as a bridge between cultures, disciplines, and generations.

The Blue Iris ultimately stands as a deeply personal yet universally resonant collection—one that weaves together memory, craftsmanship, and identity into a quiet but powerful statement.