Abraham Ortuño Perez has a nine-year-old niece and a three-year-old nephew who love coming to the studio where their parents work and making a mess of things. For fall 2026 — his most official show to date — Perez leaned into that energy entirely, imagining his niece rummaging through her parents’ wardrobe and piling on whatever she could reach.

The result was exactly as charming and wilfully excessive as that sounds. Multiple collars poked out of a deep V-neck paired with a skirt made from green leather discs. An oversized shirt with XXL cuffs arrived buried under mille-feuille cascades of ruffles. A pink fringed dress with a corseting detail nodded to Perez’s favourite Dior bag from the Galliano era, filtered through a lifetime obsession with Barbie and kawaii aesthetics. “I always try to take one thing and make it another,” he said. “It’s nice to play with that kind of logic.”

That logic extended to the season’s upholstery trend, which Perez gamely embraced by working actual chair seats into velvet-clad, fringed dresses. Gimmicky by design and unapologetically so. The sassy, over-the-top fringe numbers — T-silhouette dresses in metallic leather, fringed boots — will find their maximalist audience without difficulty. A couple of long gilets assembled from vintage rabbit-fur belts sourced from various places added what Perez called a “collector piece” dimension to the lineup.

But for all the exuberance of the showier pieces, it’s the outerwear that will likely travel furthest. Cropped and mid-length styles in shearling, faux fur, leather and wool — often with deliberately shortened sleeves to stay true to the collection’s theme of things slightly too big, slightly borrowed — were seriously covetable.

Perez has roots at Margiela, Givenchy, Kenzo, Rabanne, Coperni and Jacquemus, and his brand has always been shaped by a personal logic: “my idea of Abra was always playing with the feminine details of masculine clothes, because when my sister and I were kids, she was the tomboy and I was girly. At some point, we kind of blended together.” That blending is the collection’s beating heart — playful, specific, and entirely his own.

He took his bow with his two young muses beside him. The energy in the room was, by all accounts, palpable. Now newly appointed creative director at CamperLab, with his namesake brand also building momentum, it will be genuinely interesting to see what the Paris-Mallorca-Alicante axis produces next.