NYFW Saturday: Altuzarra, Anna Sui
New York Fashion Week once again captivated audiences, delivering a spectacle of creativity and luxury on Saturday, February 8, 2025. Two of the standout designers, Anna Sui and Joseph Altuzarra, presented deeply personal and thematically rich Autumn/Winter 2025 collections. Held at historically significant venues in New York, their shows offered contrasting yet complementary visions of elegance—one celebrating playful opulence, the other embracing gothic romanticism.
Anna Sui’s collection, titled “Madcap Heiress,” transported viewers into a world of eccentric glamour inspired by famous heiresses such as Barbara Hutton, Doris Duke, and Peggy Guggenheim. The show took place at the National Arts Club in Gramercy Park, a venue that perfectly matched Sui’s vintage-inspired extravagance. Models walked the runway in vibrant tartan hacking jackets, plush faux-mink coats, and shimmering emerald jacquard cardigans, merging old Hollywood style with modern eclecticism. Venetian stripe shirts, Fortuny pleated skirts, and bold triple-hued sneakers created in collaboration with John Fluevog stood out as signature pieces. Accessories played a key role in completing the look, with Peggy Guggenheim-inspired cat-eye sunglasses by Mondottica adding a retro flair.
The presentation was further elevated by beauty legend Pat McGrath’s contributions. She styled models’ hair into “stacked tresses,” reflecting the maximalist essence of Sui’s vision. The show opened with the melodic voice of Rita Hayworth singing “Bewitched, Bothered and Bewildered,” setting a nostalgic yet magical tone. By the finale, as Anna Sui took her bow to thunderous applause, it was clear that she had once again delivered an unforgettable fashion experience.
In stark contrast, Joseph Altuzarra’s collection, titled “Wuthering Heights,” embraced a darker, more haunting aesthetic inspired by Emily Brontë’s iconic novel. Held within the gothic splendor of the Woolworth Building, the setting reinforced the windswept romanticism of Altuzarra’s designs. The first model emerged in a double-faced cashmere coat, evoking the resilience of a heroine braving the wilderness. This mood continued through the collection with alpine cashmere sweaters, structured jodhpurs, voluminous bubble skirts, and dramatic hooded greatcoats, adding depth to Altuzarra’s aristocratic yet untamed vision.
Soft chiffon and satin dresses featuring smudged kiss and leaf prints provided a delicate balance between vulnerability and strength. Accessories, crucial to the gothic narrative, included organic-shaped chokers and studded handbags such as the highly anticipated Origami Bag and Knot-Basket Tote. A series of studded gowns in the final lineup exuded both romance and rebellion, encapsulating the mystique of Altuzarra’s vision. Describing his collection as “exquisite chaos,” he perfectly articulated the fusion of order and wild beauty that defined his runway show.
Saturday night at New York Fashion Week was a celebration of diversity in design and storytelling. Anna Sui’s collection was a whimsical tribute to fearless fashion icons of the past, while Altuzarra explored gothic literature’s timeless allure with a modern twist. Despite their differences, both designers proved that history remains an enduring source of inspiration in contemporary fashion. Each collection transported audiences into a distinct and immersive world, leaving fashion lovers spellbound and eager for more.
