Walter Chiapponi Departs as Creative Director of Blumarine

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Fashion is ever-changing. Considering the strategic importance of the function in the industry, creative directors love playing musical chairs. The most recent departure was at Blumarine, where Walter Chiapponi is quitting as head of style after a mere season in the role. After departing Tod’s in November 2023, the Italian designer was appointed to Milan Fashion Week. However, she was only able to showcase a single collection, a mixed-gender show in February 2024. Just one month after revealing the new logo he designed for Blumarine and the first (and only) media campaign he oversaw, he says goodbye to the Italian womenswear label.

The Blumarine collection that Chiapponi created was “a kind of return to the future, to which I dedicated all my love and creative passion,” he stated in a short press release. “Following this journey, I would like to thank above all Marco Marchi, who made it possible, as well as all those without whom I would never have been able to express myself the way I did.” By “loved ones,” I mean those who have passed on but whose lives have left an indelible mark on me, both emotionally and spiritually. I intend to return to the catwalks at the proper moment, but for the time being I want to devote my energy to new endeavors and projects that have a social and humanitarian purpose.

Press release author Marchi praised Chiapponi and expressed gratitude for his leadership and vision on behalf of holding firm Eccellenze Italiane. At a pivotal point in Blumarine’s past, it was an unforgettable encounter. It was an incredible journey, and I wish Walter Chiapponi the best as he continues his career. I am grateful to him for sharing so much of himself in this collection, Marchi added.

Blumarine – Fall/Winter 2024-25 – Womenswear – Milan – ©Launchmetrics/spotlight

A “flash-back to his career’s early days, through which he has left […] a personal mark with a collection that, while being faithful to the design codes that characterized Blumarine’s clothes in the past, managed to reinterpret the brand in contemporary fashion,” was how Blumarine described Chiapponi’s collection.

Chiapponi came into this world in 1978 in Milan. He made his fashion debut in the late 90s with Alessandro Dell’Acqua after graduating from Istituto Europeo di Design. He went on to work with Tomas Maier at Bottega Veneta and other high-end labels including Givenchy, Valentino, Gucci, Miu Miu, and Givenchy. The 2019 season saw him take on the daunting task of designing men’s and women’s apparel for Tod’s. For both him and the label that Diego Della Valle owned, it was the beginning of a very profitable period. By exposing the name to Italy’s fashion elite, Chiapponi helped propel Tod’s to critical and commercial success.

Blumarine, a womenswear company headquartered in Carpi, was once associated with Anna Molinari’s impeccable taste in fashion. The label was acquired in 2019 by Marchi’s Eccellenze Italiane. After Nicola Brognano was appointed creative director by Marchi in 2020, Blumarine reintroduced its girls’ clothing line and expanded into jewellery.

Blumarine wanted to give its style a more defined direction, so it appointed Chiapponi. While Brognano was in charge, Blumarine was criticized by some for not adding enough depth and originality to its creations. The label’s evolution into a full-fledged fashion brand was Chiapponi’s mission. Not a simple task, but his successor will tackle it.

Ethan Sullivan

Ethan's penchant for the pulse of the fashion world extends to covering lifestyle topics, offering readers a seamless blend of the latest style updates and lifestyle trends.

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