Louis Vuitton RTW Spring 2024
Voice of Fire, a Virginia choir, was singing loudly about the theme of its Pharrell Williams-composed song, “Joy (Unspeakable).” As the tempo increased and their white and off-white “Damouflage” robes shimmered in the light, and Williams emerged in his top-to-toe green pixelated Damier duds, and we stood and whooped as he walked down the golden Damier covered cobbles of Paris’s oldest bridge, it was clear that we wanted and needed Joy in certain very specific (and probably Damier-covered) forms.
Louis Vuitton CEO Pietro Beccari had just taken over as CEO and chose Williams to succeed the late Virgil Abloh. Williams dedicated the concert to his predecessor in his notes: “This moment is dedicated to the giant before me. To our spiritual brother.” Williams informed us ahead of time that this collection was all about LoVe. In order to disseminate that message, the event evolved into an incredible display of power. As the sun set, guests were floated up the Seine in Bateaux Mouches and dumped under the Pont Neuf, which runs immediately from the front door of the Louis Vuitton headquarters.
The guests, as seen on numerous posts, were insane. Beyond the celebrities, it was telling how many other fashion designers were present (Stefano Pilati even walked), as well as how many former fashion partners from Williams’ earlier collaborative dabbling in this field. Of course, Nicolas Ghesquière was present. Williams and Louis Vuitton were establishing the broadest of churches from the start by excluding almost no one (sworn business adversaries excepted).
After much schmoozing, we settled in for the performance as night faded into darkness. The headlights shone, the drumming boomed, and the first glimpses emerged. The Damouflage was heavy in the accessories and then the clothing, featuring an almost (but not quite!) Chanel-style knit jacket, a wonderful long netting-zhooshed duster coat, jacquard suiting, and a leather bomber. Every Minecraft youngster and every adult dude who sees camo as a go-to will react to these parts. The blocky checkerboard design eventually gave way to more organic shapes that appeared to be a nod to Williams’ 2009 Keita Sugiura woodland camo jacket (created with Moncler and debuted with Sarah Andelman at Colette).
Suddenly, a golf buggy with the word “Liberty” emblazoned on its bumper appeared, piled high with the trunks that became Louis Vuitton’s first defining product (in Damouflage). After the buggies, there was a lot more Damier, but not in camouflage. Damier denim, trench coats, suits, bikers, varsity jackets, shorts, and much more in a variety of colors. There was also a smart and desirable denim trucker and jean with Epi leather relief. Occasionally, there appeared to be more easter eggs: Was look 52 an homage to Kim Jones’s fall 2012 house collection? Perhaps it was a coincidence, but the denim and logo berets reminded me of Nigo. Williams and LoVe were sampling.
The accessories were the most potent love bombs of all. Vuitton’s world revolves on bags, and this collection was filled with a plethora of eye-catching variations: brightly colored Keepalls and Almas, Neverfulls and Speedys, worn in clusters, heaped beautifully. Was that true love, or something more cynical? Was it true, as a Financial Times piece this month sourly suggested, that Louis Vuitton “can put out almost any trinket and find a paying audience” outside of Europe, and that luxury goods like these are “Europe’s joke on the rest of the world”? Williams previously stated, “African Americans like ownership because we’ve had everything taken away from us.” We were stolen, and then our crap was taken from us again and again: possession is a thing for us.
What Williams took complete control of tonight was a position that many thought he was either too much or not enough for for a variety of reasons. They were mistaken. He offered boundless joy.
The French luxury house Louis Vuitton, established in 1854, has long been one of the world’s most well-known and highly regarded fashion brands. From its beginning as a luggage maker, it has since grown exponentially in both size and reputation, developing a long line of Louis Vuitton-branded clothing, accessories, watches, jewellery, and more.
At the heart of Louis Vuitton’s success is the brand’s timeless aesthetic. Throughout the years, it has come to be defined by a monogrammed canvas — known as the Monogram Canvas — that appears as a repeating motif on many of the brand’s products. The pattern was introduced in 1896 after British businessman Thomas Burberry copyrighted his own checkered design and forced Louis Vuitton to abandon its damier canvas pattern.
Aside from its corporate identity, Louis Vuitton is also known for its high-quality craftsmanship and attention to detail. This commitment to excellence has made the brand synonymous with luxury, distinction, and status. For example, certain handbags, such as the Speedy, are instantly recognizable thanks to their signature shapes and distinctive leathers.
Louis Vuitton has been passed down through the generations and is now run by the brand’s sixth generation, brothers Bernard and Louis Vuitton. They have continued to take the brand to new heights, regularly collaborating with both established and up-and-coming designers, as well as creating innovative technologies such as integrating the RFID chip into their products in order to help fight counterfeiting.
Today, the name Louis Vuitton has become a synonym for luxury and quality in the fashion industry. Whether you’re looking for a practical piece of luggage or a stylish accessory, you can be sure that any product bearing the Louis Vuitton name will be made with the utmost care and attention.