France’s ambitious effort to curb the environmental damage caused by fast fashion faced a major hurdle after an anti-fast fashion bill stalled in early 2025. The proposed legislation, aimed at imposing strict penalties on ultra-fast-fashion companies like Shein and Temu, initially gained momentum but has since been removed from the French Senate’s agenda—leaving supporters frustrated and uncertain about its future.

The bill, which passed unanimously in France’s National Assembly in March 2024, sought to introduce a so-called “sin tax” of up to €10 ($10.50) per item on clothing deemed environmentally harmful. Additionally, it proposed banning advertisements for brands that operate on a rapid production cycle, a move designed to limit the influence of fast fashion on consumers. Supporters saw it as a groundbreaking step toward making fashion more sustainable, with France positioning itself as a global leader in regulating the industry.

However, after France’s chaotic mid-2024 elections, political instability led to delays. The French Senate was expected to vote on the bill in early 2025, but when the official work agenda was announced, the legislation was nowhere to be found. Senator Sylvie Valente Le Hir voiced frustration over the unexplained removal, calling it a major setback for sustainability efforts. Anne-Cécile Violland, the bill’s original proposer in the National Assembly, also expressed concern, stating that there was no clear timeline for its return.

Behind the scenes, some believe that fast fashion companies, particularly Shein, may have influenced the delay. Critics point to the December 2024 appointment of Christophe Castaner, France’s former interior minister, to Shein’s advisory committee as a troubling sign. Although Castaner’s position is officially described as “purely consultative,” many fear his connections played a role in the Senate’s decision to sideline the bill. Meanwhile, fashion executives and environmental advocates, including Fanny Moizant, co-founder of resale platform Vestiaire Collective, have taken to social media to express their disappointment, with Moizant declaring, “Shein wins again.”

Shein has defended itself against accusations of interference, arguing that the bill unfairly targets specific brands instead of applying industry-wide solutions. The company released a statement advocating for a more “balanced approach” focused on innovation and collaboration, a position many view as an effort to avoid stricter regulations.

Despite the setback, the fight isn’t over. The Senate Committee on Regional Planning and Sustainable Development is scheduled to review the bill on March 19, 2025. Environmental activists and sustainable fashion brands are urging lawmakers to put the legislation back on track, emphasizing that delays only benefit fast fashion giants that rely on weak regulatory oversight.

France has a history of leading sustainability initiatives, often shaping policies that influence the broader European market. However, the growing push within the European Union to simplify regulations could undermine efforts to hold major fashion brands accountable. Meanwhile, in the United States, regulation remains inconsistent, with some states pushing for stricter oversight while the federal government under Donald Trump has taken actions that indirectly benefit fast fashion businesses.

The fate of France’s anti-fast fashion bill remains uncertain, but its outcome could have major global implications. If the legislation is revived and passed, it could set a significant precedent for fashion regulation worldwide. However, if it continues to face political obstacles, fast fashion brands may avoid stricter accountability once again. The debate over sustainability in fashion is far from over, and all eyes are on France to see what happens next.