Courrèges RTW Spring 2024
André Courrèges’ work is interesting because it is a bit strange. Nicolas di Felice has embraced this peculiarity, as seen in this season’s heeled sandal. This commercial reinterpretation of a shoe found in the archive is made from a single sheet of metal and is not wearable, but that is the point.
The show began with models hunched over their phones, but ended with them finding their inner light with the help of flashlights and chrome pendant jewelry. Di Felice was inspired by Michelangelo Antonini’s 1970s deep cut Zabriskie Point, which showed the western U.S. landscapes and the people who were free to do what they wanted.
Di Felice started with tailoring, making a powerful and sharp one-shoulder shape and an attractive one-piece with a vested collar that was angled to the side. As the story went on, these pieces started to fall apart. Pinstripes that were put together in the fall were bent and shirred, and a jacket that was otherwise covered up was cut down the middle to show a nipple.
The bad behavior continued. On one side, the black ribbed finish on the sleeves of varsity logo tees turned into a leather strap, and di Felice’s boot-cut jeans got bigger and more flared. Dresses and skirts made from circles draped around the body to look like the Courrèges logo were the most creative and eye-catching. The last look was a men’s singlet with a rainbow-like print that was totally see-through.
These little touches are what make di Felice’s Courrèges stand out in a sea of relaunches. He’s making his own counterculture here by focusing on fun and sexuality that he doesn’t hold back. In the end, it’s all about desire. You want it, and you go get it.
The world of fashion is famously ever-changing, with new brands being launched and established designers being celebrated each season. One of the most influential names of the past century is the French fashion house of Courrèges.
Founded in 1961 by André Courrèges, the brand quickly become renowned for its futuristic vision. Striking white helmets and goggles were produced to accompany sleek and simplistic looks, as the label sought to liberated women throughout the 1960s. These unique accessories, combined with the contrasting square-necked A-line dresses, transformed Courrèges into a symbol of a youth and progressivism in French fashion.
Courrèges had an unmistakable pioneering streak. He dabbled with abstract prints and use revolutionary fabrics to create structured and modern dressing. Amongst his textile innovations are the famous water-resistant Teflon fabrics, which saw Courrèges produce pieces that were both well-crafted and designed for the future. His work wasn’t limited to fabric either, the designer is largely responsible for revolutionising how accessories are worn, as he popularised items such as mini-bags and visors on the French catwalks.
In the 21st century, Courrèges managed to ensure his eponymous brand remained relevant. Creative directors Arik Bitton and Serge Ruffieux sought to revive the brand’s original identity, whilst also delivering a modern interpretation. Keeping to the core philosophy of the brand, their designs showcased a considered and unique combination of luxury and futurism.
More recently, Courrèges has collaborated successfully with H&M, helping to bring his iconic vision to the masses. By combining 60s vintage style, with modern inspirations and traditional techniques, Courrèges has developed a well-deserved reputation as a leader in fashion. To this day, Courrèges remains a brand closely associated with innovation and progress, forging a path in luxury fashion since 1961.