Paul Poiret emerged as an unlikely but fitting muse for the fall 2026 menswear season, which leaned noticeably closer to womenswear than in recent years. Jonathan Anderson embraced the early 20th-century couturier’s love of luxurious fabrics traditionally reserved for women, while Dries Van Noten’s Julian Klausner indulged in jacquards and richly patterned textiles. In the aftermath of “J.Crewgate,” designers continued to co-sign pink, and the printed foulard was everywhere—tied around the neck, draped loosely, or even worn as a head wrap.
Utility and sport, long-standing pillars of menswear, also had their moment. Boiler suits and ski sweaters grounded the collections in function, while the wider mood reflected the uncertainty of the times. Masks, undertaker black, and Matrix-like coats appeared across runways, suggesting an awareness of global unease. At the same time, designers sought to steady things with references to early ’60s suiting and classic prep—symbols of order and stylistic reassurance.
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