British fashion label A Cold Wall is entering a new chapter with the appointment of Joshua Bullen as its first-ever designer-in-residence. Bullen, 38, brings an impressive résumé that includes senior creative roles at Stone Island, Givenchy, and Kenzo. His debut collection for the brand is scheduled to be unveiled in Paris next January.
Founded in 2015 by designer Samuel Ross and sold in 2024, A Cold Wall built its reputation on an unconventional approach to contemporary fashion. Under Ross’s leadership, the label explored themes of architecture, social class, race, and modern British identity through experimental clothing and design.
Bullen intends to preserve that progressive foundation while giving the label a stronger focus on everyday fashion. Recognizing the significance of Ross’s original vision, he says the goal is to develop A Cold Wall into a more established clothing business without losing the qualities that made it distinctive.
Ross, a former protégé of Virgil Abloh, initially developed the label as a creative platform examining the relationship between fashion and society. Its growing influence attracted investment from fashion accelerator Tomorrow in 2018. Tomorrow eventually acquired full ownership in February 2024, following Ross’s decision to pursue other ventures. Nine months later, the company was sold to Four Marketing, a London-based distribution and retail group whose largest shareholder is Frasers Group.
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Since stepping away from the label, Ross has continued developing his independent design studio, SR_A. Based in Northamptonshire, his work ranges from made-to-order fashion under the Atelier name to industrial design partnerships with companies including Whoop.
Four Marketing co-founder and CEO Ben Banks sees significant potential in A Cold Wall’s established cultural reputation. Having previously mentored Ross through the British Fashion Council’s Newgen program, Banks understands the brand’s creative strengths. However, he also recognizes the need to translate its industry recognition and substantial social media following into stronger commercial performance.
The company’s next priority is expanding A Cold Wall’s international business, particularly in the United States, which already generates the largest share of traffic to its website. From February 2027, the brand plans to introduce US-based fulfillment to improve delivery times and lower shipping costs for American customers. It is also working toward establishing a US showroom ahead of the Fall/Winter 2027 season. Longer-term ambitions include opening the label’s first physical store in London.
Four Marketing brings considerable industry experience to the project. Over nearly three decades, the group has helped develop British operations for international labels such as Stone Island and CP Company. Its acquisitions have also included Agent Provocateur in 2017. Banks believes this experience will help transform A Cold Wall into a commercially stronger business while allowing the group to shape its future direction.
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Bullen’s designer-in-residence position is intentionally flexible, reflecting a collaborative approach rather than a traditional creative-director appointment. He will work alongside director and creative consultant Nick Griffiths, with both emphasizing that the creative process matters more than formal titles. There is no predetermined timeline for the arrangement.
According to Banks, the objective is to build on the label’s existing design identity rather than introduce an entirely different aesthetic. The focus will be on creating progressive clothing that combines distinctive design with practical, everyday wearability. The brand has already undergone a small identity adjustment, removing the hyphens and asterisk previously associated with its name.
For Bullen, the appointment represents a return to the fashion industry after leaving Kenzo, where he served as design director under Nigo. Before that, he led menswear design at Givenchy and spent more than a decade at Stone Island. He will work closely with A Cold Wall’s existing product team, with the upcoming collection expected to feature London-made tailoring.
The January presentation in Paris will extend beyond the clothing itself. Plans include an accompanying exhibition and music program, creating a broader cultural experience around the collection.
As A Cold Wall prepares for its next phase, the challenge will be maintaining the creative credibility established by Samuel Ross while building a more sustainable commercial business. Rather than attempting to recreate the founder’s original approach, the new team hopes to develop an independent vision that respects the label’s heritage while moving it forward.
