Zane Li, the creative force behind his namesake label Lii, launched his brand straight out of FIT and has since become one of those rare designers who arrive on the scene already fully formed. In just over two years, he has built a clear and distinct visual language—marked by sporty fabrics, sleek lines, and saturated colors—and an intent that guides his experimentation: what happens if I take this familiar shape and distort it just slightly?
Li’s clothes appear simple at first glance, yet reveal a quiet complexity. They are effortless—pieces you can slip on and go—like a shift dress with princess-seam slits for the arms. The result is a look that feels both deconstructed and playfully cerebral. After spending two seasons in Paris showing collections by appointment, Li returned to New York to stage his first-ever runway presentation—a gallery show in Tribeca, complete with a Pepto-pink carpet that set the tone for his offbeat minimalism.
Because Li’s minimalism is never flat or lifeless, the runway offered the perfect space for surprise and delight. One model appeared in a navy pencil skirt that, as she turned, revealed an emerald square cutting through its shape—transforming the silhouette into a backless mini. Another skirt folded up from the hem, creating a cowl-like dimension enhanced by a structured heavy cotton T-shirt with a panty-line hem—like a bodysuit that doesn’t quite connect.
“The starting point was the film Memoria by Thai director Apichatpong Weerasethakul,” Li shared. “It’s about how certain sounds—like keys in your pocket or breaking glass—can awaken old memories. When we started planning our first runway show, I kept thinking about the sound of fabrics in motion and what memories they might evoke.”
This thoughtful approach manifested in a striking moment near the finale: a model walked out in a sheer aqua nylon sheath with a pair of pink leggings that weren’t truly worn but instead floated in front of her legs—an illusion of movement, as if drifting on water.
The show also marked a notable collaboration with Nike, featuring six looks designed in partnership with the sportswear brand. A standout piece was a long hooded parka crafted from the same material used in Nike’s golf bags. “We added an opening along the back seam and under the sleeves, so it can be worn both normally and with vents,” Li explained. On the runway, it appeared in an avant-garde iteration—worn backward, the head slipped through a hole in the back while the neckline transformed into a gathered chest cutout.
Another highlight was a red cropped jacket with a V-neck and subtle princess seams that created a cocoon silhouette when viewed from behind. The design carried Li’s signature mix of precision and fluidity—an exploration of how structure and softness can coexist within movement.
With his Spring 2026 collection, Zane Li continues to redefine modern minimalism, crafting garments that question perception and provoke memory. His work reminds us that even the quietest designs can speak volumes—especially when they make you listen for the sound of fabric in motion.
Lii Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear
